Malagón, Revisited: What Holds, What Slips

When a restaurant earns a return visit, it usually means one of two things. Either something about the food lingered in memory, or there was enough promise to warrant another shot. In Malagón’s case, it was both. After a strong first visit marked by exceptional lamb and rabbit dishes, we returned to see whether that magic held and whether the kitchen could repeat its successes. Some things absolutely did.

Before turning to the mains, it is worth noting that the dates with serrano ham and Marcona almonds remain tiny bites of heaven. Sweet, salty, and perfectly balanced, they are one of those deceptively simple dishes that set the tone for the meal and remind you why this restaurant works when it works. They were just as satisfying on the second visit and continue to be a must-order.

The Rabbit and the Lamb, Revisited

We ordered the rabbit again because not ordering it would have been irresponsible. Once more, it delivered. The rabbit arrived perfectly crisp on the outside and tender within, lifted by citrus that kept the dish bright and prevented any trace of heaviness or gaminess. It remains one of the most satisfying meat dishes in the city and one I would return for on its own.

The paprika marinated lamb was also as excellent as before. Deeply flavored, well-seasoned, and confidently cooked, it remains a ten out of ten with no notes. This is a kitchen that understands lamb when it leans into its strengths.

Where Things Slipped

Not every dish repeated its earlier success. The lamb rump, which had impressed on our first visit, disappointed this time. The cut was noticeably fattier, tougher, and lacked the flavor and precision that made it memorable before. This was not a seasoning issue so much as a product and execution issue, and it stood out precisely because the restaurant had set a higher bar for itself.

New Additions and Bright Spots

The kitchen has added a pea tendril frisée to the lamb rump, and it deserves attention. Light, fresh, and beautifully balanced, it could easily stand on its own as a dish rather than a side. It brought welcome brightness to the table and showed restraint and finesse.

We also tried the new grouper skewer with some skepticism, as seafood had not been the focus of our earlier enthusiasm. That skepticism proved unfounded. The grouper was perfectly cooked and seasoned with cumin, turmeric, and ginger that complemented rather than obscured the fish. Each bite was flavorful and confident, and it was a genuinely pleasant surprise.

Service and Atmosphere

Service remains warm, friendly, and relaxed. There is no pretense here, just a team that wants you to enjoy your meal. Nonalcoholic options are available, which continues to matter to me, and the overall pacing felt comfortable and unforced.

The Verdict

This second visit confirmed what the first suggested. Malagón is at its best when it leans into bold, confident flavors and meats it knows how to handle exceptionally well. The rabbit and paprika marinated lamb alone justify a return. At the same time, this visit also showed that not every dish is immune from inconsistency, particularly when it comes to certain cuts.

Even with that caveat, Malagón remains a place I would recommend. It delivers enough excellence, personality, and warmth to outweigh its occasional missteps. I will continue to return, order strategically, and happily point others in its direction.