Estadio: Lamb Heart, Full Heart, Very Little Shame.

I went to Estadio alone to plan my birthday dinner. Chef Jeremy Goslin brought me a fresh local yuzu and then fed me lamb heart. This is an extremely effective way to secure my affection. Yes, I have a chef crush. I am disclosing my bias. Now let me explain why the food earned it.

First came whole local purple peppers, roasted or grilled until their skins blistered, dressed with olive oil and lemon. Deceptively simple. So sweet. I ate every one. Sometimes a chef’s best decision is knowing when to leave a beautiful ingredient alone. While they lose a little color in the cook, the sweetness bursts from every bite and the scent coming off the plate is mesmerizing.

Then came tender lamb heart with salted strawberry purée. The fruit had such depth that I accused Jeremy of using cherries. No, he assured me, it was only local, late-season strawberries. The combination was excellent, and the salt made the fruit belong with the meat. A plate that gives you something unexpected along with decadent pleasure is rare indeed.

Then the quail arrived. I do not particularly prefer poultry. Poultry generally has to explain why I should order it instead of something else. This quail required no explanation nor defense. The skin was crisp and full of flavor. The tender meat fell off the tiny bones and into a vinegar-based sauce that had me using the accompanying toast to retrieve every drop. Had the restaurant not filled up by then, I would have shamelessly licked the plate. As it was, Jeremy had me sucking on tiny little quail legs with very little shame. “Quail” is doing important work in that sentence. This shit was bangin’.

Lauren made me two excellent mocktails, one a citrus soda sort of affair and the other spicy cucumber. Both hit. Lauren continues to produce thoughtful drinks with enough character to hold their own alongside the food.

Max was there with his usual charm and introduced me to his darling mother, who had stopped in for a drink and turned out to be just as lovely as he is. Gillian served with her customary warmth. There is also a new gentleman serving who seemed very nice, although I cannot offer a thorough assessment because the lamb hearts had my full attention.

That is part of what I love about Estadio. I can arrive alone, eat extremely well, talk about food with people who care about it, and feel thoroughly welcome. The affection is personal, but the cooking gives it substance.

I was too full for anything else, more’s the pity. There was a clam special on offer that I had to miss.

We did manage to plan my birthday party between bites, so technically this was a productive meeting.

I left fed, happy, and with complete confidence that my upcoming birthday party at Estadio will be something truly special.