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We took Yia Yia Peggy to Cheeky for her birthday, and dinner had a plot: a promising opening, a dramatic fall, a pasta rescue, and desserts that caused the family to abandon any pretense of generosity. There was also a bean dispute. I am Greek. These things happen. We started with the $185 “Enjoy It All” seafood tower because it was a celebration and Noel and I deserved caviar after the last two weeks in our lives. Yia Yia Peggy’s birthday provided the administrative justific

I love Jackrabbit Filly. But I think its sister restaurant, King BBQ, might be even better. Just as quirky, with food that had my family fighting over bowls and me strategically encouraging marital discord to protect my dinner. Parking is easy. You order and wait rather than having traditional table service, which was fine with us. Everybody loved their cocktails, the mocktails were great, and the unsweet tea was good. There. We have discharged our obligations to the beverage

I went to Estadio alone to plan my birthday dinner. Chef Jeremy Goslin brought me a fresh local yuzu and then fed me lamb heart. This is an extremely effective way to secure my affection. Yes, I have a chef crush. I am disclosing my bias. Now let me explain why the food earned it. First came whole local purple peppers, roasted or grilled until their skins blistered, dressed with olive oil and lemon. Deceptively simple. So sweet. I ate every one. Sometimes a chef’s best decisi

An hour to get to dinner gives a restaurant a considerable burden of proof to meet. By the time I arrived at La Rustica in Summerville, I wanted more than a pleasant plate of pasta. I wanted a reason to make that drive again. I got several. One involved squid ink. Another involved garlic bread. The only injury arose from an unauthorized encounter with a cactus, which we will address separately. I went with a group of lawyers and paralegals who work beautifully together and wh

My mother filed a complaint alleging that everyone had been to Beautiful South except her. Immediate corrective action was required in order to avoid a substantial adverse judgment. The pu pu platter helped us investigate previously unexplored appetizers. The shrimp balls were crisp outside with soft, fresh shrimp inside. I could eat dozens. The crab rangoon dip requires a spoon and self-control. I possess only one of those. The five-spice ribs were tender and flavorful, then

I went to Cane Pazzo shortly after it opened and left underwhelmed. Since then, it has become hugely popular and well reviewed, so I was happy to give it another shot. I went back with some bright young stars in the Family Court Bar, ready to reconsider my opinion. The bar area was loud, but we could hear each other, and the high-top was reasonably comfortable. Service was warm and pleasant throughout. The Season of the Witch and Backwoods Barbie cocktails were reportedly exc

We arrived at Opal at 6:40, five minutes early for our reservation. The hard wooden chairs made an immediate impression, and unfortunately we had plenty of time to consider them. Our drinks were fairly standard, although nonalcoholic beer was available. My unsweet tea tasted stale. After taking the drink order, our server left us waiting about fifteen minutes before telling us the specials or offering to take a food order. Bread service for three was one piece of bread presen

I first visited Beautiful South because I love Kwei Fe, its gloriously spicy sister restaurant on James Island. I returned five days later with George, the Dumpling King, because one excellent meal requires verification. Three days after that, I arrived again with a whole Cantonese roast duck already preordered and additional investigators. That is three visits in nine days. I may have a problem. Fortunately, the problem is loving excellent dumplings, gracious service, easy p

Before dessert, I apologized to our server, Sidrah, for the condition of our table. She looked at the evidence and delivered her verdict: “You’re not messy. You’re exuberant.” Sidrah is lovely, hospitable, and clearly an excellent judge of character. I have adopted her ruling as a permanent defense. She is also now my friend. Noel and I went to Kultura as a little treat for not cussing out people who write us checks. As per the Rules of Court, we ordered as though we were up

Some of the dishes at Jackrabbit Filly sound completely insane. A crab omelette with kimchi, pickled ginger, tempura crunch, and massaman curry. Potato-and-leek pierogi at a Chinese American restaurant. Cornmeal fried fish over field peas and beans with confit garlic aioli. Cornbread made with Gouda, served with seasonal butter and local honey. The menu reads as though someone got high, raided several culinary traditions at once, and began asking questions no sensible person

Beautiful South did not disappoint. I already love Kwei Fe, the gloriously spicy James Island restaurant owned by the same good humans. I had not made it to Beautiful South sooner because I assumed the downtown parking situation would be trash. Objection withdrawn. There are not one but two paid lots adjacent to the restaurant, along with ample street parking. The restaurant itself is lovely. While Kwei Fe revels in heat, Beautiful South offers an approachable Cantonese-inspi

I went back to visit my gym bros at KYN, this time for a little afternoon delight. Lunch was not nearly as packed as dinner, but it was every bit as much fun. The daytime menu is pared down, which makes sense given the lighter crowd and slower pacing. KYN serves what arrives fresh from its suppliers rather than pretending every fish must be available every day. What they had was impeccably fresh, thoughtfully prepared, and further proof that our first excellent meal was not a

There are few better ways to investigate an ambitious new restaurant than with two extraordinary chefs at the table. For my first visit to The Crossing at the Cooper, I had the privilege of dining with two of the best chefs in Charleston, along with their wonderful partners. In other words, I brought expert witnesses. Let me make one thing clear at the outset: I had a wonderful time. The company was exceptional, the conversation was lively, and the evening itself was memorabl

The Archer came highly recommended. Our hosts had been dying to take us, and their enthusiasm was infectious. By the end of the evening, however, the best things about the meal were the company and the parking. The parking really is excellent. The Archer offers two free hours in the attached garage, an almost mythical amenity in downtown Charleston. You scan the code on the menu, register your license plate, and walk a short distance to the restaurant. It was easy, convenient

What began as dinner at KYN on Monday somehow became a full tour of Charleston sushi. Tuesday brought the 17-course experience at Sushi|Bar. Wednesday was our usual visit to Aji. On Thursday, we went to 167 Sushi Bar. After taking Friday off, presumably to prevent mercury poisoning and financial ruin, we completed the sweep at Shiki on Saturday. This was not planned. Apparently, I simply woke up one morning and decided carbohydrates were optional and raw fish was a civic duty

Apparently, four nights of sushi in one week is not excessive. It is due diligence. My first visit to 167 Sushi Bar came at the end of an improbable winning streak involving KYN, Sushi|Bar, and Aji. By the time Noel and I arrived to join our long lost friend, the burden was squarely on 167 to prove that I had not finally pushed this experiment one raw fish too far. The first exhibit disposed of that concern immediately. A wild mushroom gyoza special arrived with a deeply cris

Nearly a year after my first visit to Sushi|Bar, I returned with a legitimate concern. Could an experience built around surprise remain exciting once it was no longer entirely new? Worse, had success invited complacency? At this price point, repetition is not inherently disqualifying, but any decline in quality certainly would be. The verdict is emphatic. Everything was excellent, several courses were magnificent, and the entire experience remained world class. The opening ta

I went to Charleston's hippest new sushi spot, KYN, expecting a trash night. My advance intelligence described a frat-house atmosphere and owners who did not know how to make handrolls. The initial indictment was not promising. However, we all know I firmly believe in examining the evidence, so I assembled a table prepared to conduct a thorough investigation. By “thorough,” I mean we ate the menu. We also drank the cocktail menu. Then we reordered many of the things we partic

On November 3, 2025, Charleston became a Michelin city. Like many diners, I immediately wanted to know whether the inspectors had eaten in the same restaurants as the rest of us. I began writing an essay about Michelin's stars and what they meant. Then I stopped. I realized I didn't know enough yet. Instead of publishing my thoughts, I kept eating my way around town and publishing my previously private reviews. (Yes, I was "big mad" as my children say about the ridiculous snu

Not every great Charleston meal needs white tablecloths, a tasting menu, or a bill that requires advance financial planning. Lex Loci Local is where we consider the places you can visit on an ordinary night, eat extremely well, and leave without wondering whether dinner has imperiled your otherwise careful retirement plan. Katsubō belongs squarely in that category. We began by ordering what appeared to be most of the snack section: spicy pickled cucumbers, pickled daikon radi