Bareo: Dumplings, Handrolls, and a Very Happy Table

Bareo, is the new younger sibling of the wildly popular Kultura. It has opened in Kultura's former location and is a more casual spot focused on dumplings, handrolls, and small plates meant for sharing. I brought my favorite foodie friend and two of my children, and we approached the evening with proper scientific rigor by ordering essentially everything on the menu.

Let’s start with the dumplings, because they are the backbone of this place. In short, they are incredible. The pork and cabbage dumplings are deeply flavorful, helped along by a delicious barbecue sauce that ties everything together. The wagyu truffle dumplings are among the best dumplings in the city. Packed with flavor, perfectly cooked, and with that ideal ratio of delicate wrapper to filling that makes dumplings satisfying rather than doughy. The pork longanisa and shrimp siomai are small balls of flavor that lean heavily into ginger seasoning. If you like ginger, these will make you happy.

Before diving deeper, the assorted pickles deserve a quick mention. They are simple and effective, functioning as palate cleansers between the richer bites. They are not great, but they do not need to be.

The onigiri offerings were another strong section of the menu. We tried all three. The salmon adobo version was well received by everyone else at the table, though I personally do not prefer cooked salmon and found these too heavily salted. The crab mango curry was my favorite of the group, slightly sweet with a gentle heat that made it both playful and satisfying. The tuna yuzu kosho was bright and balanced and another standout.

The handrolls may actually be the sleeper stars of the menu. The scallop with bagoong and lemon was not my personal favorite, though others at the table enjoyed it. The salmon miso and negi roll packed a tight, concentrated punch of flavor in a small package. But the real standout was the cucumber umeboshi kimchi handroll. It was an amazeballs fusion of flavors that somehow managed to feel both fresh and intense at the same time.

The bento box was more uneven. The miso salmon itself lacked flavor on the protein, though the smear of miso paste helped. The pork humba was solid but not memorable, and the potato salad lacked the kind of interesting seasoning that would have elevated it. The surprise of the box was the miso-sinigang soup, which was shockingly citrus-forward. That profile may not appeal to everyone, but I absolutely loved it.

The tinola noodle soup was reportedly delicious, though it disappeared quickly after being stolen by my children, which is often the most honest review possible.

We ended the meal with the mango kakigori, an enormous cloud of shaved ice that was light, refreshing, and not overly sweet. Whatever you do, save room for one of these.

The beverage program is also thoughtfully done. Cocktails and mocktails are interesting and plentiful, and I appreciate that anything on the cocktail list can be prepared without alcohol and still works beautifully. The tea selection is also extensive and worth exploring.

Bareo feels like exactly what it intends to be: a lively, casual place built around shareable plates and big flavors. Not every dish is perfect, but when the kitchen is firing, particularly with the dumplings and handrolls, it is very, very good.

If you go, start with the dumplings. Then order the handrolls. And make sure someone at the table has the good sense to order the kakigori. We will back for sure.