Grill 225: A Classic That Still Knows Exactly What It’s Doing

To recover from the disaster that was the evil Snow Monkeys, our group did what any sensible diner should do. We went somewhere that knows exactly what it is doing.

Grill 225, tucked inside the Market Pavilion Hotel, is a throwback in the best possible way. Easy valet parking, deep wood paneling, white tablecloths, and a room that feels elegant without trying too hard. The tables are spaced properly, the seating is comfortable, and the entire experience leans timeless rather than dated. That sense of confidence carries through everything.

Our server, Jimmy, was a pro: witty, charming, and fully in control of the pacing of the meal. He guided the table through a progression that made sense, anticipated needs, and delivered the kind of service that makes you relax and trust the experience.

We started with the Nitrotinis, which arrive with theatrical flair and a legitimate warning label. They are cold, dramatic, and fun. The dirty martini needed to be a little dirtier, and the team happily adjusted with additional olive brine. Gimmick or not, it was a satisfying cocktail. For non-drinkers, iced tea service was thoughtful and generous.

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Bread service set the tone. A nostalgic spread of yeasted breads, baguettes, and seeded rolls that reminded you why this tradition still matters when done well.

Then the kitchen went to work.

The escargot were outstanding. Tender snails, properly cooked mushrooms, and a balanced garlic butter that avoided the greasiness that so often ruins this dish. The addition of kasseri cheese brought richness without overwhelming. This is now tied for the best escargot in the city.

The prime beef tartare was solid, though it needed a bit more salt and horseradish to fully come alive.

The standout appetizer was the grilled octopus. Perfectly tender, properly charred, and paired with a bright salad of arugula, feta, and tomatoes that complemented rather than competed. Octopus is a dish many kitchens get wrong. This one gets it right.

For a bit of fun, we added the truffled potato chips. The chips themselves were fine, but the buttermilk blue cheese dip was exceptional. Balanced, rich, and the kind of thing you find yourself dipping everything else into by the end of the course.

Service throughout was polished, with the charm of white coat formality. There were small technical misses, no crumbing between courses, and occasional lapses in traditional service patterns, but these were minor in the context of an otherwise excellent experience.

Then came the mains.

The seared sea scallops were beautifully executed. A proper sear, balanced accompaniments of mushrooms and leeks, and a thoughtful tarragon note. The black cherry brandy element was unusual but did not detract.

We also tried the Roma tomato pie, and it deserves mention. Big, flavorful chunks of tomato, fresh herbs, and a flaky crust that managed to stay structured without becoming greasy, which is where so many versions fail. It was bright, balanced, and unexpectedly one of the more satisfying bites on the table.

The real moment, however, was the steak Oscar offered as a special. This is a dish that can easily feel dated or be poorly executed. Here, it was a triumph. A perfectly cooked filet, topped with lump crab, asparagus, and a hollandaise that was rich, stable, and expertly made. The first pass arrived with a temperature issue, but it was corrected immediately, and what followed was a textbook execution of a classic.

This is the difference. Someone in this kitchen is tasting everything. Someone is controlling the pass. Someone cares deeply about what leaves that line. Someone loves the art and the craft of fine dining. As a guest, I love that someone.

Dessert continued the theme.

The banana bread pudding was very good, moist and full of flavor, though some of the plate elements felt unnecessary.

The New York cheesecake, however, was exceptional. A classic done exactly right, with a bright raspberry and strawberry accompaniment that balanced the richness perfectly. Easily one of the best in the city.

Coffee service could be improved with a darker roast, but at this point we are searching for flaws just to be petty. Also, their pastry chef slipped in a tiny, perfectly executed koulourakia to go with the coffee so I was not about to whine about it the roast on my coffee.

And that is the story.

This is not a restaurant chasing trends. It is not trying to reinvent anything. It is executing classic dishes with precision, consistency, care, and dare I say, love.

The pricing reflects downtown dining, but it does not feel inflated. We left feeling that we received real value for a high-quality experience.

After a meal like this, you remember why certain places endure. They do the work. Every plate. Every night.

And yes, I hugged Jimmy on the way out. That should tell you everything.