Delaney Oyster House: Before the Ballet, the Kitchen Shows Its Range and Artistry

After our first visit to Delaney Oyster House ended with a martini that started a small personal turf war, I found myself back again before the ballet at the Gaillard. Restaurants within easy reach of the theater quickly become part of the evening ritual, and the Delaney is positioning itself nicely for that role.

The martini still holds the crown. Briny, ice cold, unapologetically dirty. My guests explored the cocktail list again and were equally enthusiastic, while our server guided wine selections for the table with confidence and accuracy. After my single indulgent martini, I happily returned to the elusive and much appreciated unsweetened tea.

We began again with oysters, this time from Bulls Bay. They were marvelous on their own, clean and briny, but we also explored some of the kitchen’s dressed preparations. The Oysters Delaney with caviar, crème fraîche, and chive were elegant and indulgent. The spicy dressed oysters delivered a delightful pop of heat that enhanced rather than overwhelmed the shellfish.

For a Caesar-loving guest at the table, we ordered the salad. It delivered exactly what a Caesar should: crisp lettuce, a bright dressing with just enough citrus to lift the flavors, and croutons so well-seasoned that even the usual crouton skeptics ate theirs and commented on how good they were.

We revisited the spicy shrimp ajillo. The shrimp were again slightly overcooked, but the garlic and chile sauce remains irresistible. We once again requested more sourdough toast to make sure none of it went to waste.

My mother, who orders scallops whenever she sees them on a menu, was already full when her entrée arrived but powered through anyway. The scallops were perfectly cooked and served with cauliflower purée, Brussels sprouts, and a slightly spicy mustard that brought brightness and balance.

Please note in the photo the last bit of grilled sourdough that my mother refused to give up and clutched to her to enjoy with her scallops.

One guest ordered the blue crab rice. It was decadent and layered but deeply crab-forward. I have never been a fan of crab rice in Charleston, but after stealing several bites from her plate, I am forced to conclude the problem has not been the dish itself but how others have executed it. This version was excellent.

My own entrée was an inventive play on shrimp and grits from Executive Chef Cheyenne Bond. Well-cooked shrimp sat in a spicy tomato gravy inspired by puttanesca, thick with garlic and red chile. The sauce had reduced just enough to behave like a true gravy, clinging to the shrimp and warming the palate. Beneath it were crispy grit cakes that somehow managed to be both crunchy on the outside and creamy smooth within. Taken together, the bite was both familiar and surprising. Classic shrimp and grits reimagined with the briny punch and heat of puttanesca. It is the kind of subtle creativity that tends to follow Chef Bond wherever she leads a kitchen.

As before, we were far too full to order dessert. At some point we are going to have to show restraint so we can report on that part of the menu.

Two visits in since Chef Bond took over the kitchen and Delaney Oyster House continues to deliver exactly what Charleston’s dining scene benefits from: a dependable restaurant with a serious bar program and a kitchen that knows when to keep things classic and when to introduce just enough creative spark to keep the table talking.