Melfi’s and the Difference Between Popular and Good

Melfi’s is an upscale Italian restaurant on upper King Street widely praised by critics and locals alike. It is frequently named as one of the better Italian options in Charleston. After a recent dinner celebrating the thirtieth birthday of a pasta loving friend, I am genuinely puzzled by that reputation.

I left grateful for the company at my table and disappointed by the food.

The Setting and Logistics

Parking is tight but manageable. We were able to find spots at the Greek church, on the street, and in nearby paid lots without too much trouble. Once inside, however, the space immediately felt cramped.

The restaurant is small and jammed with tables set far too close together. The chairs are tiny. The room cannot comfortably accommodate a stroller or a highchair much less a wheelchair or walker. It is loud, but not in a joyful or lively way. It lacks the warmth and convivial buzz that make close quarters feel intentional, something their sister restaurant Little Jack’s Tavern manages far more successfully.

Service was pleasant but slow and intermittently inattentive. The staff was kind to our birthday guest, leaving a birthday card on the table and placing a single candle in her non- complimentary gelato at the end of the meal.

A Stronger Start Than Finish

The appetizers were better than what followed.

The spicy Caesar salad was overdressed and soggy. The table ate about half and agreed it was fine but not particularly spicy. The fried artichokes were tasty, though heavily salted and greasy, and the portion consisted of just two small pieces.

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The surprise standout was the snapper tartare with local peppers, citrus pieces, Castelvetrano olives, and fried shallots. It was an unusual and interesting crudo, again heavy on salt but lively and flavorful. At twenty-five dollars, it felt expensive for the portion, but we were glad to have tried it.

When the Pasta Falls Flat

Most of the table had been to Melfi’s before and spoke highly of the cacio e pepe. It happens to be one of my guilty pleasures, so despite planning to order the branzino in deference to my cardiologist and in honor of my mother, I gave in to peer pressure.

That was a mistake.

Melfi’s version is made with bucatini and arrived swimming in oil, with poor quality cheese, little pepper, and an overwhelming amount of salt. The pasta itself was more raw than al dente, and the dish simply did not taste good. Three of the four diners ordered it. Not one person made it halfway through the small portion before giving up. The pool of oil at the bottom of the oil was simply too much and seriously off-putting.

Our fourth guest ordered the spaghetti with shrimp. The menu does not disclose the addition of Calabrian chili, but it was clearly present and delicious. This dish told a very different story about what this restaurant is or could be. It was fresh, balanced, and properly cooked, with just the right amount of heat to highlight the shrimp. The pasta was perfectly al dente, and the dish was genuinely delicious. I was grateful she let me taste it, if only to understand what the kitchen is capable of and why the restaurant has remained popular.

Desserts and Diminishing Returns

Dessert did not redeem the meal.

Most of the table ordered gelato, which was basic and unremarkable. None of the small portions were finished. I did, however, learn that the small goblet holding the gelato is called a coupe, and along the way learned the myth about it being modeled after Marie Antoinette’s breast is historically inaccurate. That bit of trivia was far more enjoyable than the gelato itself.

We also ordered the zeppoles, which were too large and arrived raw in the middle. Our server did not notice that they went untouched, and I eventually had to point out the issue. She graciously removed them from the bill, but the kitchen misstep underscored the general lack of attention that defined the evening.

Coffee was acceptable, and I was happy to have a double espresso option, though it arrived surprisingly tepid. Whether the machine was not calibrated properly or the drink sat too long before being served, it was another small but telling miss.

The Bottom Line

This was an expensive meal for the quality delivered. While there were moments that hinted at what Melfi’s could be, or perhaps once was, the overall experience felt below mid. Cramped seating, uneven execution, and pasta that failed at its own premise made it hard to understand the enthusiasm surrounding this restaurant.

The evening was lovely because of the people at the table. The food was not.

For a restaurant so often praised as one of the city’s better Italian options, Melfi’s did not justify its reputation or its price point on this visit. How very disappointing.