The Lick at 10 Windermere: A New Neighborhood Steakhouse With Ambition

We celebrated a birthday for one of the bad ass bitches of law on Friday night at The Lick at 10 Windermere, the new neighborhood hotspot in South Windermere.

The restaurant has only been open about a month and it is already hopping. The room is small, lively, and tight in the way many popular neighborhood spots tend to be. Tables are close together, and the energy level is high. Parking, however, is plentiful across the street in front of Earthfare, which makes the whole experience easier than many Charleston dining destinations.

The only real downside to the space is the noise. It gets loud enough that conversation can be challenging even when seated close together. That said, the seating itself is surprisingly comfortable, and the room feels energetic rather than chaotic.

The owners, a gracious and clearly hardworking couple, personally greet tables and check on guests throughout the evening. Their enthusiasm for the restaurant is obvious, and their hospitality sets the tone for the entire room.

The menu describes itself as chef driven, though the reality is more straightforward. This is upscale American comfort food with a steakhouse lean. The good news is that it is executed well.

We started with a dozen oysters from the raw bar. They were solid and properly served. The real standout among the appetizers was the tenderloin steak tartare with horseradish and raw egg. It was sharp, bold, and deeply flavorful, exactly what you want from a well-prepared tartare. The two of us who appreciate such things finished the plate without hesitation. Our less adventurous friend gravitated toward the deviled eggs served on a bed of bacon jam and topped with jalapeño. They were well balanced and satisfying.

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For mains, the house made pappardelle with bolognese impressed everyone at the table. The pasta was perfectly cooked, and the sauce was rich, wine forward, and deeply comforting. It was one of the most satisfying dishes of the evening.

Another guest ordered the wagyu short rib with whipped potatoes. It arrived fork tender and packed with flavor. She declared it excellent but admitted she might order the bolognese next time simply because it was that good.

As is my habit, I ordered the filet, a six-ounce wagyu cut. The steak itself was flavorful and well sourced, though it arrived slightly undercooked for my preference. This does not appear to be a kitchen mistake so much as a house tendency to err slightly under the requested temperature. Keep that in mind when ordering. If you want medium, consider ordering medium well. Even so, the steak was delicious enough that I had no interest in sending it back. My companions happily claimed the rarer center pieces and declared them perfect.

I also sampled the beef tallow fries. They were salty, rich, and satisfying, though I would have preferred them slightly crispier.

The cocktail and wine lists are strong, and I appreciated being able to order unsweet tea without hesitation.

We were too full to attempt dessert, which simply means we will have to return.

The Lick at 10 Windermere is still finding its rhythm, but the foundation is strong. The owners are clearly invested, the ingredients are high quality, and the kitchen is producing comforting, well executed dishes.

Given the early crowds and the energy in the room, it seems likely that this lively neighborhood steakhouse will do very well. And judging from our table’s experience, it is a place worth revisiting.