The Grocery: Why Is This Place Not Packed?

We went to The Grocery last week with my usual rotating cast of food obsessives and left asking the same question: Why was this place not full? When we were there, less than half the tables were occupied. That is wild to me given the quality of the food.

Parking was easy in nearby garages and lots, with validation for two hours, which already gives it an advantage downtown. Inside, the room is comfortable, relaxed, and pleasantly spaced without feeling cavernous. The vibe was calm rather than sleepy, and the staff struck that perfect balance between attentive and hovering.

The drinks program is solid with interesting if not always perfect cocktails, thoughtful non-alcoholic offerings, and proper unsweet tea service for those of us who need our emotional support beverage.

Then the food started coming. With only two notable misses all evening, the kitchen was operating at a very high level.

The low point arrived first with the yellowfin tuna dish, which essentially became a giant tallow tater tot with tuna somewhere vaguely involved in the process. The fish itself disappeared entirely beneath the potato and fat, and even tasting the tuna separately did not help matters. It was overcooked, muted, and oddly lifeless.

Thankfully, things improved immediately afterward. The fried oysters were beautifully executed with a crisp, seasoned coating and thoughtful accompaniments that balanced richness and acidity. Also, those house-made pickles were bangin'!

The beef tartare was another strong showing. The charred snow peas gave the beef an almost grilled depth while the cured egg yolk brought a luxurious texture to the dish.

The beet salad was bright, balanced, and surprisingly elegant, with fresh strawberry and nuts for the necessary crunch.

The real revelation of the evening; however, was the carrot dish. I do not usually leave restaurants talking about carrots but, days later, I am still thinking about these carrots. Perfectly roasted with pickled raisins, pistachio dukkah, and a harissa goat cheese spread that tied the entire thing together, this was one of those rare vegetable dishes where every component actively improved the others. It was sweet, tart, creamy, crunchy, and slightly spicy. It all worked. We were genuinely sad when the plate was empty. I wish I had taken a better picture because what you see here cannot capture the magic of this dish.

The cauliflower dish was another success, carrying sharp curry flavors balanced by sumac shallots and olives. It was bold without being heavy-handed.

Then came the gnocchi. Or perhaps more accurately, then came the moment of sadness to pause the good momentum. The ricotta gnocchi themselves were properly cooked, but they were almost entirely devoid of seasoning, as was the broth and pork accompanying them. The dish was not offensively bad so much as bafflingly unfinished, as though no one stopped to taste it before it left the kitchen. It was a jarring miss in an otherwise excellent progression of dishes.

Fortunately, the mains recovered nicely. The golden tilefish was the strongest entrée of the evening. It was beautifully cooked with a crisp potato crust and restrained, herbaceous flavors that let the fish remain the star. The dish was fresh like spring being light, thoughtful, and elegant.

The steak was well cooked and properly seasoned, though some accompanying vegetables leaned underdone.

The soft-shell crab trio was both fun and surprisingly well executed. Each preparation highlighted different strengths of the crab, though the fried version was the clear favorite at our table with a beautifully crisp coating and excellent tartar sauce.

Desserts failed to tempt us, not because they sounded bad but because they felt comparatively safe and uninspired after such a creative savory menu. We skipped them entirely.

And that really sums up The Grocery. This is a kitchen capable of genuinely exciting food. The highs are extremely high. The creativity feels intentional rather than forced. Pricing is fair by downtown Charleston standards and does not feel inflated relative to the quality being delivered. Which is why the emptiness of the dining room remains such a mystery to me. This is not a struggling restaurant serving mediocre food. This is a very good restaurant with flashes of greatness that deserves a fuller room than it currently has.

Fix the few dishes that are dragging behind the rest of the menu, and this place could become one of the most consistently exciting dinners downtown.

And please, for the love of God, when you go, order the carrots.